Sunday, September 12, 2010

Africa Day 6: L and L

The birding and wildlife tour has been focused on looking for birds, but we stop to view other wildlife we happen upon. But today we set out in the morning with a goal to find big cats. We drove through an acacia scrub forest along a stream valley, the stream still had significant water even at the end of the dry season. The stream was flanked by bright green palms and fig trees, quite a contrast to the predominantly brown, treeless grasslands of the Serengeti. In this area the grasses were 3 to 4 feet high, perfect cover for lions and leopards. Of course that makes seeing them difficult! After about 30 minutes we came to a large fig tree from which a vervet monkey was giving an alarm call. However, despite intense searching we failed to find the cause of the monkey's interest. So we continued on.
Later we passed another safari van and the driver said a leopard had been seen back up the stream. By the time we reached the very same fig tree, about 20 safari vans were lined up watching, clearly the monkey was right to give an alarm. Soon we had very nice views of a leopard coming down the tree until he disappeared into the grass. But careful searching revealed a second leopard still in the tree, lying on a limb! It is quite unusual to see two leopards together since they are solitary hunters. Turns out the first leopard was a +1 year nearly full grown cub, and the leopard in the tree was the mother, both looked healthy and well fed.
After watching for a half hour or so we again headed up the stream valley, then crossed to the other side, just as a pride of lions crossed the dirt track! At least 10 lions: 4 lionesses and 6 cubs crossed slowly and unconcerned, while the cubs pounced, jumped on the moms, and generally acted as if they were in a Nat Geo documentary. Our driver then took us up a small rise and turned right onto another track hoping we'd get another view. This time we saw the whole pride walk towards us, some coming within 3 feet of our van! We got a full count: 6 lionesses, 2 yearlings, and 8 cubs!
After the lions had disappeared into the grass we continued birding, until we returned to the lodge for lunch. Afternoon rains kept as at the lodge until about 4:00, but we went out wildlife viewing and birding until dusk. Because of the wild predators, you can not leave a vehicle, and you are not allowed out in car after dark. Although much of the day was spent looking for L and L, we still saw 79 species of birds, including 11 new ones for the trip.
As I was finishing writing this post sitting at a picnic table outside the lodge, one of the staff came over. He asked if I had seen the lions as I went back to my room last night. Apparently 2 lions were only 10 feet off the path that went from the lodge to my room, and I had passed them unaware. A fitting end to a day of leopards and lions in the Serengeti!

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