Why Africa, Why now?

Several friends have asked why did I decide to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. Well to answer that question I have to proved a lot of background, so bear with me.

The genesis of this trip and climb go back to 1980, when I first saw the PBS series Flame Trees of Thika, which was based on Elspeth Huxley's biography of her childhood growing up on a remote farm in Kenya in the early 20th century. I was so inspired by the fearlessness, curiosity, and caring nature of young Huxley, we made Elspeth the middle name for our first child. A few years later my fascination with Africa was enhanced when I saw Out of Africa, which had amazing cinematography of Africa: flamingos on the saline lakes, wildebeest crossing the plains, solitary acacia trees in the scrub. So way back then the desire to visit East Africa began.

Another activity that leads to Kilimanjaro is hiking. As far back as High School I have enjoyed hiking, I spent many weekends driving around CT to hike various “Blue Trails”. After college I made it out west where I hiked through most of the major National Parks, including backpacking in Yosemite and Glacier National Parks. So I have always enjoyed hiking up into the mountains to experience the views, the crisp mountain air, the sense of being above the world.

The final thread that leads to Kilimanjaro is my hobby of Birding. I take my binoculars anywhere I go and always get out for local birding, weather visiting the jersey shore in summer, traveling to Germany on business, vacationing at a Mexican beach, or visiting my Mom in Oregon. As a Birder I find joy in seeing a variety of birdlife and be necessity a variety of habitats, and challenging myself to try and identify new birds, sometimes after only fleeting glimpses. I keep lists of the different bird species I’ve seen in the NJ, the US, and the world. Part of the fun of the hobby is seeing a totally new bird, a Life Bird. After 30 yrs of birding I’ve seen only about 1200 of the 9000 bird species on the planet.

So last summer I was casually looking at a brochure on birding tours around the world and one tour immediately caught my enthusiastic attention: an 18 day guided tour through East Africa. This was the ultimate fusion of my 30 year fascination with Africa and my hobby of birding: two countries, 18 days, only six participants, and led by the author of “Birds of East Africa”. The tour has the potential to see around 450 new species, including exotic groups of birds I have never seen: Snake-Eagles, Sandgrouse, Honeyguides, Barbets, Sunbirds, Hornbills, Cuckoo-Shrikes, Cisticolas, Boubous, Drongos, Firefinch, and Waxbills; to name a few. I decided, what the heck, after 30 years with Merck I have 6 weeks of vacation, maybe its time I actually used up all my annual vacation for the first time in 20 years, spend some money I’ve saved and just go! At the time Tanya also planned to go, but when she got a new job she lacked enough vacation time to go, in the end I decided to go anyway.

But how did I end up climbing Kilimanjaro? As I was reviewing the detailed itinerary for the 18 day birding tour, I realized the trip circles around Mt. Kilimanjaro. Given its near mythical status: almost on the equator but permanently snow covered, the tallest base to peak mountain on the planet, the tallest mountain in Africa, and famously titled by Hemingway “The Snows of Kilimanjaro”. Moreover, the summit is accessible by hiking and reaching the summit does not requiring technical skills of crampons, ice axes, ropes, carabineers, pitons, etc. So it seemed like a perfect chance to extend my time in Africa and make the hike of a lifetime.

And now the real challenges have begun: can I prepare for the mental and physical challenges of the 6 day climb so I can climb the mountain safely? Can I successful challenge you to support me by helping those who have difficulty breathing? Please donate generously to the American Lung Association today! Thanks!

Details of the climb up Kilimanjaro

Although climbing Kilimanjaro is not a technical climb (no ropes or crampons needed), it is very definitely a physical and mental challenge. It is a 100 km, 60 mile, 6 day, 15,000 ft ascent challenge. And if I do reach the peak I must endure air with only 49% of the oxygen at sea level, strong winds, and temperatures that can reach -15F. Not surprisingly, less than half the folks attempting this climb succeed in reaching the peak. Clearly I am at disadvantage living at sea level, and having access to peaks for practice climbs with only 1000 ft ascents.

To reach the Mt. Kilimanjaro summit I will need to:
Day 1 start at 4888 ft and climb to 7152 ft, distance hiked 13 miles
Day 2 start at 7152 ft end at 12598 ft, distance only 5.5 miles, but start of high altitude acclimation
Day 3 start at 12598 ft end at 12959 ft, hike 9.3 miles but this day includes an ascent to 15190 ft then come down to help acclimatize
Day 4 start at 12959 ft and climb to 14927 ft, hiking 8 miles (last chance to acclimatize), if suffering any signs of altitude sickness I will not be able to attempt the summit.
Day 5 start at 14927 ft (start hike at midnight!), hopefully reach the peak at 19340 ft at dawn, hiking 4.3 miles
After brief stop at summit, begin descent from 19340 ft to 10170 ft hiking down hill for 14.3 miles, total for the day is 18.6 miles (by far the hardest, highest, longest hiking day!)
Day 6 begin at 10170 ft and finish at 6496 ft with a final hike of 9.3 miles

Additional day by day details of my planned route to the summit of Kilimanjaro can be found at:
http://www.climbingkilimanjaro.com/machame-route-kilimanjaro.php

Training update: week Jul 17

Training reward: View of the Delaware River from the top of Mt. Tammany, a 1000 ft ascent on a side trail off the Appalachian Trail.





My Kilimanjaro Guide group has a 8 week training program:
http://www.climbingkilimanjaro.com/climbing-kilimanjaro-fitness.php

But it is designed around a Gym, the idea of working out indoors on sweaty machines has NO appeal to me.

So I have invented my own program: Gradually I have been increasing my biking to >100 miles a week (I enjoy riding outdoors) and go as hard as I can. Then I do at least one hike along the NJ Appalachian trial: starting from 8 miles and building up towards 20 miles. The ultimate test will be to do two hikes of ~15 miles back to back on a weekend.

Biking was on target this week, I reached 100.26 miles. Thanks to the odometer I got for Father's Day from Tanya I now know how far I go and at what speed. I was able to bike everyday but Sunday (that's the Hiking day) and Wednesday (heavy rain).

Hiking was also was on target: as detailed earlier I did 14.5 miles and made two 1000 foot ascents.


For next tomorrow's hike I plan to reach my maximum one day distance: 20 miles.

Training Update Jul 18: Success, well I did the 20 miles in almost exactly 8 hrs. But it is pretty close to my limit, by the end my feet and legs were pretty sore. Also a bit more discomfort in my right knee, noticeable wen going down steep slopes. Hope I don't get stuck coming down Kilimanjaro!

NJ wildlife while training

Two views of Sunfish pond, located about 3 miles from the start of my hiking training along the Appalachian Trail. First picture is from the South end of the pond, the second picture is from a ledge overlooking the pond at the Northeast end. I always stop for a water break and snack at the pond.


Since the climb up Kilimanjaro will require a 100 km (60 mile) hike, I need to prepare for the hiking. I picked the Appalachian Trail area near the Delaware Water gap because it is relatively close to my house (about an hour away), and I have a good guide for the trail that details distances on the trail. What I didn’t realize was how much interesting wildlife I’d see.

As a birder I have been quite excited about what I’ve seen, most as “naked eye” birds (without binoculars). For warblers I’ve seen Worm Eating, Hooded, Blackburnian, Black and White Warblers; American Redstart, Common Yellowthroat, and Northern Waterthrush. I’ve some of the more colorful woodland birds: Rose-breasted Grossbeak, Scarlet Tanager, and Baltimore Oriole. Other woodland birds I've seen include Blue-gray Gnatcatcher, Wood Thrush, Eastern Towhee, Chipping Sparrow, Warbling Vireo, and Red-eyed Vireo. I’ve also seen 3 Pileated woodpeckers and a Winter Wren!

Among the mammals I’ve seen are deer and black bear (happily the bear ran away from me). I almost stepped on a Timber Rattler! (do not text while hiking!), found a 5-striped Skink (one of only three lizards species that live in NJ), and saw Pumpkin Sunfish in Sunfish pond.

All in all the different wildlife have helped make the hiking/training fun.

New sitings Jul 18: Another bear (quite close to the trail), 5 deer, new birds: Ovenbird, Raven, Bald Eagle

New sitings Jul 24: Eastern Wood Pewee (2), Flicker (7), Swainson’s Thrush, Red-tailed Hawk, and Carolina Wren.

Will you help others breath better?

Exciting news, the American Lung Association has allowed me to make my climb a charity climb!

Considering the 50% reduction in oxygen at the summit, it will be a challenge for me to get enough air to breath. I'd like to do something to help folks who have trouble breathing every day.

Please click over to the American Lung Association and consider making a donation, you can make a donation right now, or post a comment below pledging dollars for every km I hike on this 100 km hike. I've also arranged a 2 for 1 match for the first $500 donated at the page, so your $10 will send $30 to the American Lung Association. What a deal!


Please donate today!

Trip Update

I've now paid for air fare, birding tour and climbing tour, I'll be in Africa from Sept. 4 to Oct 3. I've gotten most of my vaccinations, just lacking the critical Yellow fever and boasters for HepA and HepB.
Now I need to get my Visas, which may require a trip into NYC and or Washington DC, I will be calling the Kenya and Tanzania consulates tomorrow to see what I need to do.
Also working on trip insurance and travelers medical insurance.

Finally I need to buy a lot of gear from REI to prepare for the lowland heat, mud and possible rain and the summit's cold and wind. I get to fill a duffel bag with 30lbs of gear that a porter will carry. Anything else I carry, including a days worth of water, trail mix and power bars for snacks while hiking, camera, binoculars, bird guide, cellphone, extra layers of clothes, etc.

Training Update

Had to take 1.5 weeks off from training: let my toes heal and I was off to visit relatives in Ohio then off to UK and Germany to try and set up collaborations for Merck. Over Independence Day Holiday had a fun time visiting in-laws in Ohio: July 4th parade and fireworks. Took a few 3 mile walks, but no biking or long hikes. So last week I only did 12 miles of biking and no trail hikes.

But this week is off to a good start, I completed a 14.5 mile hike near the Delaware water gap, including a 1000 ft very steep ascent after going 11 miles. Pretty good results: 7.5 hrs on the trail with only minor knee discomfort the last mile going down a steep trail. On Monday added another 22.5 miles of biking. The goal of my training is to do two 15 mile hikes in one weekend without crippling pain!

24000 steps forward, 2 steps backward

Last week was a good week for training. I rode over 100 miles, including a 10 mile hill climbing session in the Watchung Reservation. Tanya got me a odometer/speedometer for my bike so I now will be bale to accurately track my weekly biking.

I also extended my hiking distance along the Appalachian Trail, from 8 miles last weekend to 11 miles this Sunday. It took me 4.5 hrs and 24000 steps (I wear a pedometer). I felt pretty good and was considering going an extra 4 miles to climb another peak, but I started getting pain in the second toes on each foot. I had no pain last week, but this week I was wearing an extra layer of wool socks to simulate climbing Kilimanjaro in the cold sub zero weather.

When I got home, both second toes had accumulated blood under the nails, and I assume I'll lose both nails. So today I ordered a new pair of boots a ½ size larger, now I have to break them in and see if they work better.

Interesting wildlife along the AT this week; a doe and fawn, a Rose-Breasted Grosbeak (very beautiful) singing lightly only 10 feet off the trail, a Five-lined Skink (one of only 3 lizards found in NJ, I didn’t know any were found in NJ!), and a Timber Rattler, sunning itself in the middle of the trail. I encouraged the rattler to leave with a stick, it gave me a nice shake of its rattle and slowly crawled off into the woods. First rattle snake I ever saw!

Birding tour before climbing

The real reason I'll be in Africa is not to climb Kilimanjaro, its to go on a birding tour through a rich diversity of habitats that also happen to have most of the large African mammals. After birding for almost 30 yrs I have slowly built up a life list of about 1200 bird species seen in the US, Europe, Japan and Mexico. But I've never been to the prime birding areas of Central America, South America, or Africa. So this tour just struck me as a great first chance to see both African birds and mammals on my first trip to Africa. I am hoping to see maybe 400+ new species, a 30% increase in Life Birds in just a 3 week tour, it will be a challenge to remember them all. And of course the tour will always be on the look out for the big predators and prey animals found in Africa.

The tour is designed with birding in mind, only 6 participants traveling across Tanzania and Kenya in an open topped van so we always have 360 degree visibility and, we are reasonably safe form too close interactions with the wildlife.

If you'd like details of the trip it can be found on the Field Guides web site:
http://fieldguides.com/bird-tours/kenya-tanzania

There is still one tour spot open!

Finally a new update

Well it's clear I am not a very good blogger, one post in 6 months!
Any way lots has happened.

Sept 09
I made a "test run" in Sep 09: a 15 mile 3000foot accent up Mt. Marcy in the Adirondacks.
Good news, I made the climb in about 7 hours.
Bad news it was tough. My pace was good I passed many folks, including college students.
But physically it was very hard on my knees, by 4 miles they hurt, and from then until the finish they I would get occasional sharp pains. I was worried enough to question climbing Kilimanjaro!
Worse even then the climbing pain was the leg soreness, by the time I finished the hike my entire legs hurt. Later that day I drove over to my Uncles in Keeseville, and when I arrived I literally could not lift my legs out of the car, and I had to "shuffle" rather than walk. For another week they were very stiff. So how could I do a 7 day hike if I couldn’t move on day 2?

Oct 09-Mar 10
I took my leg discomfort as evidence I really need to take training seriously. So I upped my bike riding to 4 days a week for a total of about 50 miles, and started brisk 2.5 mile walks twice a week. As winter came the biking dropped and the walking increased.

Apr 10
While attending a conference in Keystone Colorado, I had a chance to go out cross country skiing above 10,000 ft. This would be a good test of my ability to function at altitude, since in NJ I'm stuck pretty much at sea level. Happily I was able to maintain a good level of exertion over 2 hours and not feel totally exhausted! On the other hand, climbing 2 flights of stairs to my hotel room had be huffing and puffing. Thus, I am getting optimistic that I can do the high altitude climbing, but I will obviously need to set a modest pace when I get to Africa.

May 10. I have gotten most of my vaccinations: polio, Tetanus, diphtheria, HepA, HepB, Typhoid, still need final Hep A and Hep B boosters, plus Yellow fever.

May Jun 10
I've increased my bike riding to about 100 miles a week, and added a weekend circuit through the Watchung Resevation that takes me up and down pretty steep hills (I need to downshift to the lowest gear the first time, but now can make the steepest climbs in the second lowest gear)

Jun 20, 2010
Last weekend I started adding hiking in the Kittinany Mountains (hills really) along the Appalachian Trail. Sunday I did an 8 mile, 4 hr hike. Again I passed other hikers, but none passed me. But best of all, I had no knee pain, no leg soreness, and no stiffness!

So I am optimistic my bike training has helped my knees, and my fitness is improving, and maybe I will be counted among the 90% who succeed each year in climbing Kilimanjaro.

June 23, 2010
Today I locked in my air line reservations, Sept 4 I'll leave form Newark, returning Oct. 3.. Waiting for a letter form Field Guides (my birding tour group, so I can get my Visas.

Hopefully I will be a bit more timely with future posts!